Lining your lips isn’t just an over the top trend from the ’90s (although everything from that era is coming back right now—scrunchies, anyone?). One quick swipe can accentuate the lips, promote long-lasting colour and prevent lipstick from feathering. “Most makeup lovers either have a collection of lip liners or they just stick to their usual lipstick colours. But lip liners have made a comeback thanks to social media,” explains celebrity makeup artist, Shaan Muttathil. Here, we got the expert to reveal four things you didn’t already know about lip liners, and share his top tips on using one too.
“Everyone has a different lip tone, so you need to pick [a lip liner] that’s a shade darker than your natural colour, and go lighter with the lip colour in the centre. When you [use a lip liner] on your natural lip line (or outside it), it adds to your pout and enhances it by creating a shadow,” says Muttathil. The product is also important if you’re doing a full face of makeup. “Powder, concealers, foundations will make your natural lip line vanish, and a liner will help you correct your lip shape,” he explains.
A waterproof lip liner will work as a primer for your lips, and act as a tacky base that will make your lipstick stay on longer. Lip liners work especially well with glossy colours as they control the bleeding of the colour. “To enhance your lips for darker colours, go for a shade that’s just a little darker, and not the same shade. Here’s an example: when you’re applying a brighter red as your lip shade (like MAC’s Ruby Woo), use a darker red liner to precisely define your lips. This will make the lip contour more prominent,” says Muttathil.
If you have pigmented lips, a lip liner will be your best friend when it comes to evening out your tone. Lip liners are usually shaped like pencils, but you can even use a matte liquid lipstick like a liner. “If you have a steady hand, use an angular brush or an eyeliner brush to draw the contour of your lips with liquid lipstick,” says Muttathil.
“If you are confident about your lip shape, draw along your natural lip line to define your pout. If you want to make them look bigger, draw just above the lip line, but not too far above or it will look artificial,” says Muttathil. He says that many actresses he works with also like to make their lips look smaller, in which case, you line inside your natural lip line, or cover your lips with a foundation to create a plain canvas, and then draw on your desired shape.
“Always have a half smile while applying a lip liner, not a full smile. This way, the lips are slightly stretched and it’s easier to glide the liner. Start with soft strokes and then build up on the colour, if you wish. Lip liners work well to create ombre lips, and you should use your fingertips to smudge the colours and make it look like a natural transition. Do not colour your lips completely with a liner if you plan to wear lipstick too, because the more you fill, the more dry and thick it will look. Always aim for a softer look,” he advises. To do this, use your lip liner around your Cupid’s bow and at the centre of your bottom lip, because you only need to enhance the centre to make your lips look natural. “Don’t overline your corners or you will end up with a clown-like smile. If you wish to use a liner for your corners, line inside the natural line with light strokes,” concludes Muttathil.
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During the 1990s, one of the hottest ways to rock a lip combo was to pair a dark lip liner with light-colored lipstick. Fast forward to the 2000s, and a pale lipstick shade with hardly any visible liner was one of the trendiest looks of the moment.
Styles tend to move in cycles, and sure enough, lip liner is majorly back. But do you have to use one to create a beautiful lip color? According to LYS Beauty founder and CEO Tisha Thompson, the answer is no. “I tend to think makeup is done best when there are no rules, but lip liner can absolutely enhance the wearability of a lipstick,” she says.
When pairing a lip liner with lipstick, it’s important to lean into your creative freedom. Lipsticks and lip liners do not have to be the same shade to look stunning. “Mixing and matching your makeup products is how you can create a look that’s uniquely your own,” Thompson says. Conversely, Bobbi Brown Cosmetics pro artist Michele Shakeshaft says there is a shortcut to a stunning combo: “I like to keep the lip pencils and lipsticks in the same color family,” she says.
Meet the Expert
Ahead, Thompson, Shakeshaft, and celebrity makeup artist Katie Mellinger share their favorite tips and how-tos for pairing lipsticks and lip liners.