Axle Bearing Service - Dos and Dont's???

I put the advice/suggestions into action!

BTW...I used a Trailer Aid Plus and it did a great job of lifting adjacent wheel of the ground 1"-2". Great and easy to use product. If I ever get a flay and need to change tire/wheel, this will come in very handy! NO jacking involved!

I did purchase a race and seal driver (HF ICON brand) and already had the Lisle bearing packer. I may not have needed the race and seal driver, but I wanted it!!

I was able to pull wheels and inspect everything. Bearings and races appear good (no pits, gouges, or signs of blueing/overheating). Bearings are made in China and sizes are L68149 and L67048.
I have AL-KO 4400# axles.

I've attached a few pics of brakes, hubs, etc.

Upon inspection, I have a few questions. My brake references are based on the attached pic of backing plate of drivers/left side of trailer - front/forward drum:

1. I noticed that the magnet arm appears loose, and when I push/move it to the left, only the right side brake shoe moves outwards towards drum. Is this correct? If so, when does the left shoe move?

2. Right brake show mentioned above, is down to approx. 1/16" of lining. Left shoe has approx double the lining. This is probably due to right shoe moving and not sure if left show is moving at all.

3. Wear holes in magnet appear to still have some depth. I believe they are good.

4. There are no gouges and deep scratches in the drums wear surfaces. Also, no blueing or signs of overheating. I believe they are good.

5. I do see the brake wires plastic/rubber cover has split. Is there something better than electrical tape for covering these wires? I am unable to get heat shrink tubing over wires.

6. Checked spindle and small hole where grease exits (from EZ lube zirc fitting) and all appears in good shape and no gouges and sharp edges.

What else am I missing?
Is there more to be inspected?

Was considering changing bearings/races over to Made in USA Timkens. Thoughts?

Thanks!

2023 GMC, 3500HD, Crew Cab, 6.6L Gas/6 Speed Auto, 4X4, Standard Bed; SRW
2011 Outback 250RS - Anniversary Edition
Equal-i-zer 10K

I wanted to thank EVERYONE for the suggestions, advice, charts, pics, etc. It is ALL very helpful.I put the advice/suggestions into action!BTW...I used a Trailer Aid Plus and it did a great job of lifting adjacent wheel of the ground 1"-2". Great and easy to use product. If I ever get a flay and need to change tire/wheel, this will come in very handy! NO jacking involved!I did purchase a race and seal driver (HF ICON brand) and already had the Lisle bearing packer. I may not have needed the race and seal driver, but I wanted it!!I was able to pull wheels and inspect everything. Bearings and races appear good (no pits, gouges, or signs of blueing/overheating). Bearings are made in China and sizes are L68149 and L67048.I have AL-KO 4400# axles.I've attached a few pics of brakes, hubs, etc.Upon inspection, I have a few questions. My brake references are based on the attached pic of backing plate of drivers/left side of trailer - front/forward drum:1. I noticed that the magnet arm appears loose, and when I push/move it to the left, only the right side brake shoe moves outwards towards drum. Is this correct? If so, when does the left shoe move?2. Right brake show mentioned above, is down to approx. 1/16" of lining. Left shoe has approx double the lining. This is probably due to right shoe moving and not sure if left show is moving at all.3. Wear holes in magnet appear to still have some depth. I believe they are good.4. There are no gouges and deep scratches in the drums wear surfaces. Also, no blueing or signs of overheating. I believe they are good.5. I do see the brake wires plastic/rubber cover has split. Is there something better than electrical tape for covering these wires? I am unable to get heat shrink tubing over wires.6. Checked spindle and small hole where grease exits (from EZ lube zirc fitting) and all appears in good shape and no gouges and sharp edges.What else am I missing?Is there more to be inspected?Was considering changing bearings/races over to Made in USA Timkens. Thoughts?Thanks!