Where do companies buy fabric from?

09 Apr.,2024

 


When you have an idea for a clothing line, or you’re working as a freelance fashion designer, you might have to source fabric.

What is Fabric Sourcing?

Fabric sourcing is the industry way of saying finding a supplier who has the fabric you need for sale. This is how fashion designers get their fabric. They source – or find and buy it – from varying suppliers. This guide is going to tell you exactly how to do that, step-by-step, whether you’re looking to source fabric in the USA or online.

Unless you’ve been in the fashion industry for a while, knowing how to source fabric (and trims!) can be really overwhelming.

This guide is going to walk you through how to source fabric with low minimums, where to find suppliers, and the pros / cons of different types of vendors and fabric options.

How to Source Fabric: The Simplified Step-By-Step Process

There are many options to source fabric when starting a clothing line. Let’s start with a 10,000-foot view of what the process looks like:

  • You send cuttings of fabrics you like (reference swatches) to suppliers you’ve researched
  • The supplier sends you similar swatches for fabric they carry (headers)
  • You pick what you like and order a small quantity (sample yardage) to make prototypes for testing (using a tech pack)
  • You test wear / wash the garments to make sure the fabric is perfect
  • You order a large quantity (bulk yardage) for production

Now this is a reeeally, REEEALY, REEEALY zoomed out view. There are a lot more details to this process, and this guide will go through all of them!

(Psst! You can also use these exact strategies to source trims + findings like zippers, buttons, ribbon, etc!)

We’ll go through all the details about types of fabric, types of suppliers, and must-know terminology first. Then I’ll share a simple step-by-step process you can easily follow to source fabric today.

Where NOT to Source Fabric for your Fashion Brand or your Clients

Let’s get this out of the way first, because it’s a mistake TONS of designers make.

Project Runway feels glamorous, and it may be your only exposure to “real” fashion. But the problem is that it’s pretty, well, unreal.

Sourcing fabric at Mood (or the Garment District, Joann’s or your local craft store) is exactly what you don’t want to do. You’re paying FULL RETAIL, which is at least 2x what you should be paying.

Retail stores have markups, and you and your clients don’t need to pay them. This guide is going to show you where and how to buy fabric wholesale (even if you only need a few yards) no matter where you live.

What Fabric Do You Need for Your Clothing Line?

The best way to figure out what fabric you need for your fashion brand or your client’s line is to see what’s already in the market and find a reference sample. This is called counter sourcing, and it’s the easiest way to find the materials you need.

You can do this a couple ways:

  1. Look in your closet: You may already have the perfect coat or pair of leggings that has the fabric you want to use. It doesn’t matter if the labels are torn out and you don’t know what the contents are; you can use this as a reference to source fabric + trims. This is a great option because you already know the fabrics wear and wash well.
  2. Shop the market: Go to your favorite stores and find something similar to what you want. Ask the sales reps what fabrics are selling best right now. They are often super knowledgeable and always happy to share. You don’t need to tell them about your brand, just ask: “What fabrics are doing really well for lounge pants, I’m looking for something that won’t pill, doesn’t collect lint and hair and feels like butter!” Buy a few options and then wear them! Wash them! Love them hard to make sure they hold up!

Once you have a reference sample (or a few), you know what fabric you’re trying to source wholesale.

Must Know Fabric Sourcing Terms

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Before you start to source fabric for your clothing line or your freelance clients, here are some basic details you should be familiar with.

  • End Use: What will the fabric be used for? Leggings, outerwear, dresses? You probably have this figured out by your reference samples and what you want to design, but make sure you know this before you approach any suppliers.
  • Content: What is the fabric made up of? 100% Cotton, 100% polyester, a blend? If you have a reference garment, use that content as a starting point. If not, look at similar garments in the market.
  • Fabric Weight: This is calculated by how many grams per square meter (GSM) a fabric weighs. You don’t need to calculate this, but it’s good to understand what it means. When someone asks what weight you’re looking for, you can say “I’m not sure of the exact weight, I have a reference sample and it’s being used for a summer jogging pant.” This is enough to get started!
  • Fabric Construction: This is how the fabric is made. The two most common types of construction are knits and wovens. Knits are made up of a single yarn that is sort of braided together to create the fabric. Wovens are made up of many yarns that run right to left (called weft) and top to bottom (called warp), weaving over and under each other to create the fabric. When you begin to source fabric, the first question they’ll probably ask is if you need a knit or a woven. If you don’t know, tell them the end use and the supplier can help. Here are a few examples:
    • Knits: leggings, bathing suits, t-shirts, underwear
    • Wovens: button down dress shirts, jeans, bed sheets
  • Special Finishes / Treatments: Does the fabric need to be waterproof, anti-bacterial or require a distressed look? You may not know the exact treatment needed (that’s ok), but decide if you want a specific function or look so you can communicate it to your supplier.
  • Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ): The minimum number of yards you have to buy. May vary for sample vs bulk orders.

Types of Fabric You Can Source for Your Clothing Line (plus pros / cons of each)

In Stock Fabric

This is fabric that is in stock and ready to buy. The colors, quality and any finishes are done and you buy it off or by the roll as is. This may feel limiting, but it’s actually a great option.

Pros of Buying In Stock Fabric:

  • It’s available immediately
  • It’s in stock (meaning it should be available in 6 months when you need to reorder, but always confirm continuity – that they stock the fabric and guarantee color matching)
  • MOQs are typically much lower (some places let you buy just 1 yard)

Cons of Buying In Stock Fabric

  • Limited customization (beyond printing or embellishing)
  • You can’t get the exact color or quality you want
  • Other brands can use the same fabric

Deadstock Fabric

This is fabric that is leftover or rejected. It may be an overrun from another brand, or didn’t pass quality control inspections.

Pros of Buying Deadstock Fabric:

  • It’s available immediately
  • Limited availability (can be a selling point)

Cons of Buying Deadstock Fabric

  • Limited availability (if it sells well, there’s no more)
  • It may not be the best quality (inspect and do your research)

There’s controversy about whether deadstock fabric is sustainable. Do your own research to see if it’s the right choice for you.

Greige Goods

Greige goods/yardage is raw fabric that is unbleached and undyed, ready for custom colors, finishes or treatments. (It’s a neutral color combo of grey + beige = greige!)

Typically you’ll buy a large quantity from the fabric mill and then have smaller cuts dyed and finished per your specifications.

Pros of Buying Greige Goods:

  • Fully customizable for colors, finishes or treatments

Cons of Buying Greige Goods:

  • Large minimums (500-1000+ yards)
  • More moving parts (you have to have it dyed / finished elsewhere)
  • Overhead and deadlines (you have to store whatever you don’t dye / finish, and raw fabric will deteriorate over time)
  • Long lead times (a couple months +)

Fashion Startup Advice: In-stock or deadstock fabrics are a great low risk and low minimum place to start. Buying greige goods is a huge investment, can incur big liabilities and typically isn’t worth it for small or startup fashion brands.

Types of Suppliers to Source Fabric from (plus pros / cons of each)

What is a Fabric Mill (vs house vs factory)?

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A fabric mill takes the raw materials and creates fabric by weaving, knitting, etc. MOQs are often very high (500-1000+ yards) but they do allow for complete customization.

A fabric house takes the raw fabrics (greige goods) and dyes, finishes or treats them.

A factory is where the fabric is cut and sewn into finished products.

Unless you’re an established brand ready to order 1000’s of yards, you probably won’t be working directly with a fabric mill.

Pros of Buying from a Mill:

  • Lowest prices
  • Fully customizable

Cons of Buying from a Mill:

  • Very high MOQ
  • You’re buying raw fabric (and still have to coordinate dyeing / finishing etc)

What is a Fabric Agent / Rep?

A fabric agent is a representative of many fabric suppliers and is a liaison for you. Their fee is usually built into the fabric cost, so you will pay a little more (in my experience about 3-5%), but their relationships, knowledge and time they’ll save you can be worth it.

If you can’t find the right fabric, get ghosted by mills, or aren’t sure what you’re looking for, an agent can simplify and streamline the process.

Think of a fabric agent like this:

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Pros of Buying from an Agent:

  • Access to more suppliers
  • Streamlines the process

Cons of Buying from an Agent:

  • Costs a little more

Fashion Startup Advice: Agents can be amazing. You can find them either at trade shows or through online research, and when you’ve get a good one who understands your needs and serves you well, hold on to them! I’ve worked with many in my career who helped source fabric for tons of products ranging from outerwear to underwear.

What is a Converter

A converter buys greige goods (raw fabric) directly from the mill, dyes / finishes it, and then sells it. They tend to stock on-trend colors + prints that are sold with lower MOQs (sometimes just 1 roll). Some converters will also offer custom dyeing / finishing of greige goods with lower MOQs than you can get from a mill (a few hundred yards).

Pros of Buying from a Converter:

  • Immediately available
  • On-trend colors
  • Available for reorders (confirm continuity)
  • Lower MOQ than from the mill

Cons of Buying from a Converter:

  • Other brands can use the same fabric
  • Limited customization

Fashion Startup Advice: Converters are a great middleman for low MOQs and on-trend fabrics.

What is a Jobber?

Jobbers have been around in fashion for a really long time. They buy mill ends or small lots of leftovers from fabric mills and resell it for a profit.

Pros of Buying from a Jobber:

  • Available immediately (if you choose from what’s in stock)
  • Low minimums (often just 1 yard)

Cons of Buying from a Jobber:

  • Higher prices than buying directly from a mill
  • Typically not reorderable and can’t guarantee continuity (matching color + quality over time)

Fashion Startup Advice: You can find good jobbers, but they’re hard to come by. They have a reputation for “misleading” and saying things will be in stock or continuous when they won’t.

Full Package Production (FPP)

An FPP is a provider who can take you from napkin sketch to finished production for your startup clothing line, including sourcing your fabric and trims. When you’re working with an FPP, all you need to get started is an idea.

That’s because they’re a one-stop shop that will help you through every step of the fashion startup process (which of course costs more). However, the time and mistakes they’ll save you from can quickly make up for the additional expense.

I’ve interviewed a few great FPP providers on my podcast. Here are a few episodes to help you learn more about how they work:

Where to Find Low Minimum Fabric Suppliers for My Clothing Line?

There are a few places to find fabric mills, jobbers, converters, agents or FPP providers for your clothing line. The two best options are trade shows and online. Each of these offers plenty of low minimum options.

Trade Shows

Often, there is a sourcing section at fashion trade shows. But there are specific fabric sourcing shows too.

If you can’t physically go to a trade show, look through the list of vendors (you can find this on the trade show website) and contact them directly.

Textile trade shows where you can source fabric + buy wholesale. Many of these fabric vendors have sustainable and eco-friendly fabrics, offer low minimums, and are located around the world – USA, Paris, London, and beyond.

Online

The easiest place to start is looking through the vendors listed at trade show websites. But if you still can’t find what you need, dig deeper online.

A lot of wholesale fabric suppliers are old school and don’t have the greatest online presence, so this can be a rabbit hole. But with some digging and googling you can find great options. Don’t be afraid to pick up the phone and call them. It can be a lot easier to quickly get what you need than waiting for an email (that may never get answered).

Online resources where you can source fabric + buy wholesale:

What to Do Once You’ve Found Fabric Suppliers

The next step is to ask for sample swatches. If you know the specs (weight, construction, finishes, etc), the supplier may be able to send you swatches from that info.

Otherwise, you’ll send them swatches of your reference fabrics (the garments you bought or pulled from your closet, and yes this means you have to cut those garments up). The supplier will find similar fabrics and send you samples.

Most suppliers do charge for swatches + shipping, so be prepared to pay for this. (If you’re sourcing for a freelance client, the client should pay for any hard costs like these.)

Once you have swatches, decide which fabrics you like or get approval from your client and buy sample yardage. The price per yard may be higher than buying for bulk, but do not skip this step. Sew up some samples for wash / wear testing to make sure the fabric is perfect before ordering bulk yardage (use a tech pack for sample / bulk production).

Must Know Fabric Details for Sourcing

You’ll be talking to a lot of people and looking through a lot of swatches when sourcing. Make sure to keep detailed notes about who you talked to, where swatches came from, and all the fabric details.

Most suppliers will send their swatches on header cards or hangers. These informational cards are attached to the fabric and include details like the supplier, content, weight, etc. They look like this:

Photo credit: Vend Fabrics LTD

If the header card doesn’t include the following details, ask for the information and take your own notes:

  • Supplier
  • Article or Item # (so you know what to order)
  • Fabric Weight
  • Content
  • Construction
  • Width
  • Price (sample vs bulk)
  • MOQ (sample vs bulk, surcharges, etc)
  • Delivery lead time
  • Country of origin
  • Care instructions

You’ll want all this information for your tech pack!

Payments + Timelines for Custom Wholesale Fabric

If your fabric is being custom dyed or developed, pay 50% down and 50% when the shipment is ready. Do not pay 100% up front. (For in-stock, deadstock or other available fabric, you’ll simply order what you need and pay up front.)

Custom development can take a few months. While your fabric is being developed, keep in touch with your supplier every couple of weeks to see how things are going and get status updates.

(In fashion, it’s very typical to check up on your factories and suppliers frequently to make sure things are on track. Don’t feel like you’re pestering!)

If you’ve been ghosted by fabric suppliers, chances are it’s because:

  • You sent too much or not enough detail
  • You didn’t sound like you knew what you were talking about
  • You didn’t seem serious enough

There are a lot of people out there who want to start a clothing line, and suppliers get a lot of inquiries. Your message may get pushed to the bottom and never answered.

Here’s what you want to include in your email:

  • Your ideal MOQs (minimum order quantities) and target price (if you have one)
  • Any special construction requirements (ie seam-sealed)
  • What you do (or don’t) have sourced
  • Your ideal delivery date

Wrapping it up: What to Do Next to Source Fabric for Your Clothing Line

This guide covered a lot of types of suppliers, processes and steps along the way for sourcing fabric. It can be an overwhelming part of the whole process of starting a clothing line but it’s an important step to make sure you’re ready to reach out to factories!

So to review, if you’re starting a clothing line or freelancing with limited knowledge on fabric sourcing, here’s what to do, step-by-step:

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  1. Find reference samples for your desired garment by shopping the market.
  2. Research suppliers from the trade show vendor listings to see if any specialize in your category (active, outerwear, lingerie, etc).
  3. Contact suppliers once you have an idea of what you’re looking for. Use the free email templates I’ve provided, and remember, sometimes picking up the phone is easier! Have a list of questions ready to ask (swipe these from my email templates!).
  4. Order swatches and choose the best fabric for your design.
  5. Order sample yardage to make some sample garments.
  6. Test the sample garments. Wear them. Wash them. Wear them. Wash them. Wear them. Wash them. A LOT! Give samples to people in your target market for feedback.
  7. If the fabric doesn’t work, go back to the suppliers with comments about what you did / didn’t like to see other options. If the fabric does work, then order bulk yardage to begin production (using a tech pack).*

*There are a lot more steps to launching a clothing line, such as marketing, pre-selling, etc. that you’ll need to explore as well! But this guide is about sourcing, not marketing, so we’re keeping it super simple and focused on getting fabrics and trims for your clothing line. Make sure to check out the Successful Fashion Freelancer podcast to learn more about how you can help your clients kickstart their brands!

A couple things I would NOT do (that I see a lot of newbie freelancers and startup designers trying to do):

  1. Develop custom fabric or get custom colors dyed. It’s too expensive, takes too long, and MOQs are too high. The risk is too big when you’re just starting out, and there are plenty of great options available in-stock.
  2. Skip using an agent because it’s a little more expensive. A relationship with a good agent is priceless and is worth every penny.

Time to take action on launching your clothing brand!

Now that you understand the process of sourcing low minimum fabrics and trims for a small clothing line, it’s time to take action! Don’t overthink it. Use the links and free email templates I’ve provided to reach out to suppliers who are a good fit for you and your clients, and keep track of what you learn! Before you know it, you’ll be another step closer to your freelance biz goals and getting your fashion designs into production.

Starting a clothing line involves countless moving parts. Beginning with a great foundation and high-quality materials can set you apart from other fashion brands. But fabric sourcing can be overwhelming. There are various types of fabric qualities—knit, woven, yarn dyed, and printed—as well as many techniques for knitting, weaving, and printing. Where do you start? 

For many fashion designers, sourcing fabric is the first step of the design process. The next step is designing garments around that fabric. Choosing the right materials for your products can make an impact on your sales and customer satisfaction—no one wants a scratchy t-shirt or pants that shrink in the wash. 

In this article, you’ll learn how to source the right fabrics in a few steps, the different types of fabrics and suppliers, and the right questions to ask when you’re choosing fabrics for your clothing line.

What is fabric sourcing?

Fabric sourcing is the process of finding a supplier who produces the fabric you need and managing the supply chain and delivery to get the required goods on time, within budget, and without any damage.

How to source fabric for your brand in 3 steps 

1. Learn the basics of fabric construction

Understanding how fabric is constructed and what fabric type is best for the product you’re designing is a crucial step in the design process. 

While there are many different ways fabric can be constructed—two of the most commonly used fabric construction types are knits and wovens. 

Knitted fabric

Knitted fabrics are usually lightweight, comfortable, and don’t require much care to keep up their appearance. Knits tend to resist wrinkling making them a more popular fabric choice. Knitted fabric is used when designing soft, comfortable tops, bottoms, and undergarments. Their elastic nature also works well for active clothing. 

Today, knits are available in various fibers, such as linen, silk, wool, Tencel, polyester, cotton, and cotton blends. 

There are two fundamental ways that knits get made:

  1. A weft knit or hand-knitted fabric is constructed with a single yarn that’s looped to create horizontal rows. Each row gets built on the previous row. 
  2. A warp knit is made with multiple parallel yarns that are simultaneously looped vertically to form the fabric. 

This article in Threads Magazine gives you an in-depth look at knit fabric construction. Real Simple’s glossary of t-shirt fabrics is a helpful resource to learn more about knit fabric types that brands use for t-shirts. 

Woven fabric 

Woven fabrics are made with two or more sets of yarns interlaced at right angles to each other and are constructed on a machine called a handloom or power loom. Frequent characteristics of woven fabrics are opacity, abrasion resistance, and pill resistance. The higher the thread count, the higher the quality and strength. Uses for wovens include denim and formal pants, button-down shirts, and jackets.

Two classifications of woven fabrics are:

  1. Basic or simple weaves. This includes plain weave, twill weave, and satin weaves.
  2. Complex or novelty weaves. This includes dobby weave, jacquard weave, pique (like a men’s polo tee shirt), and more.

Learn more: Tune in to Shopify Masters to hear from retailer Yanal Dhailieh, founder of Peace Collective, about how a single breakout moment helped them drive lasting growth for their two retail stores.

2. Understand the different types of fabric suppliers

Finding reliable fabric suppliers is a critical step in starting a clothing line. It’s best to find partners that can guarantee the stock you need as well as on-time delivery. 

There are three different types of fabric suppliers that are defined based on how they operate and what kind of fabric they stock. 

  1. Fabric mills. These suppliers provide made-to-offer fabrics and often have substantial minimum order requirements (MOQs).
  2. Converter. A company that purchases unfinished or greige goods from the fabric mill. Then they proceed to finish the fabric by dying, printing, or washing the goods before they sell it to you.
  3. Jobbers. Jobbers typically carry a limited stock of fabric that was left over from converters and mills. They may sell it at reduced prices and don’t usually restock a fabric, color, or print once they sell out. Take caution with this type of fabric supplier, as you may not be able to order the same fabric twice.

3. Visit trade shows and source fabric online

Sourcing fabric in person at fabric trade shows allows you to see and touch the materials. However, you can also find fabric suppliers online and order fabric hangers (a.k.a. swatches or samples) that you can review at your studio or office. Depending on the fabric mill, they may charge you a fee, usually around $5 to $10 for each fabric hanger. 

Source your fabric at trade shows 

Fabric trade shows can be overwhelming. Rows and rows of supplier booths, sometimes hundreds, are a lot to look at in a few hours. You can research the exhibiting fabric mills before the trade show and make a list of your top 10. Leave yourself a few extra minutes, just in case you discover fabric suppliers that you didn’t find during your online search.

Two fabric trade shows that you can start with are:

  1. The Fabric Shows. The Fabric Shows is better for small quantity fabric orders, and many of the fabric suppliers that exhibit are based in the US or have showrooms in the US.
  2. Texworld. Texworld is a more significant trade show with more exhibitors. Many of the fabric suppliers that exhibit at Texworld have mills overseas in China, India, and elsewhere. 

Here’s a list of textile trade shows in the US, in chronological order. 

Source your fabric online

If you can’t make it to a fabric trade show, searching trade show websites for fabric suppliers that meet your criteria is the next best option. These days, many fabric suppliers, if not all, have a fabric catalog on their website. You can peruse at your leisure and then request fabric headers (sometimes called hangers) that you can review in the comfort of your office. 

10 questions to ask fabric suppliers

Knowing the right questions to ask and what to look for when sourcing fabric for your clothing line is crucial. Many brands create a spec sheet template, a form that lists specific information about each fabric quality. In some cases, the fabric supplier may already have a spec sheet that they can share with you. 

Here are 10 questions to ask fabric suppliers while you’re sourcing fabric for your clothing line.

1. What is the fabric article or item number?

Just like finished products that you sell through your ecommerce store, fabric suppliers create article or item numbers for each fabric quality that they sell. The fabric article number is usually found on the fabric hangers. Take note of this number, as you’ll need it when you order the sample and bulk fabric yardage. 

2. What is the fabric weight?

It’s important to think about the fabric weight of each garment you are designing. You most likely will not use the same fabric weight for every product in your collection. Often, bottoms use a heavier-weight fabric than tops. However, it depends on each specific garment and how you want the fabric to drape or lay over the wearer’s body. 

Fabric weight gets listed in grams per square meter (GSM or GR/M2). Below are a few examples of fabric weights used for different types of knit garments. 

  • Activewear leggings and sports bras are about 200 GSM to 300 GSM
  • Lounge pants are about 180 GSM to 250 GSM
  • Standard t-shirts are about 130 GSM to 180 GSM
  • Lightweight t-shirts are about 130 GSM and less

Please note, these fabric weights are suggestions based on experience. The fabric weight you choose may vary for your clothing line. 

3. What is the fabric content? 

Fabric content refers to the makeup of the fibers that are used to knit or weave the fabric. Commonly used fibers are rayon, cotton, polyester, and silk. 

4. What is the fabric construction?

Fabric construction involves the conversion of yarns and sometimes fibers into a piece of fabric that is then used to make an end product. Fabric characteristics are determined by the materials and methods used to construct the fabric. Presently, most fabric production uses interlacing methods, such as weaving or knitting.

5. What’s the fabric width (total and cuttable)?

Fabric width is the measurement across the width of the fabric roll from edge to edge. Fabric suppliers will provide you with two points of measurement (if they don’t, ask for it). 

The two measurements to consider are the total width and the cuttable width. The edges of the fabric can be skewed or damaged during production and transportation, so it’s best to refer to the cuttable width for a more precise measurement of fabric that is usable. 

6. How much does the fabric cost per yard/meter (sample yardage and bulk yardage)?

Depending on your target retail price for the garments that you will sell to consumers and the fabric yield for each garment, you can determine your target fabric price per yard or meter for each fabric. Keep this target price in mind when you are sourcing new materials to ensure that you are within your budget. 

Typically, fabric pricing per yard or meter can change from year to year, depending on the market and the cost of resources to make the fabric. Also, buying fabric in bulk usually costs less than purchasing sample yardage. You can ask the fabric supplier for their sample and bulk price per yard. The cost per yard for sample fabric can be $3 to $5 more, and in some cases double the bulk yardage price. 

7. What is the minimum order quantity (MOQ)?

MOQ refers to the minimum amount of fabric yardage that you must buy per order from a supplier. In most cases, fabric mills have an MOQ for sample yardage, usually at least five yards, and a different MOQ for bulk yardage. Depending on the supplier you are working with, bulk fabric yardage MOQs vary.

For example, if a supplier requires an MOQ of 500 yards, you must purchase at least 500 yards to be able to deal with that supplier. In some cases, the fabric supplier will allow you to order less than the MOQ by applying a surcharge to the price per yard. 

You can ask if you can apply the bulk MOQ across multiple colors of the same fabric quality or if it’s per fabric, per color. Applying the MOQ across more than one color is a way to maximize your buying options if you are unable to buy 500 yards of one color. 

8. How long is the fabric delivery lead time?

The time between the initiation of a fabric order and the completion of a production and delivery process is the fabric delivery lead time. Some fabric suppliers keep stock of the fabric that they sell, resulting in quick turnaround time from the moment you place your order to the delivery at your factory. Other suppliers have delivery lead times ranging from four weeks to eight weeks. You can ask for fabric delivery lead times for sample yardage and bulk yardage. Sample yardage usually has a shorter delivery lead time.

9. Where is the country of origin?

The country of origin or COO is the country where the production of the fabric and shipping takes place. It’s important to ask for this information as it must go on the inside label of your garments and it will also affect the cost of your fabric. Here is an overview of key terms to know if you are importing your fabric from overseas.

10. What are the fabric care instructions?

The recommended method for washing fabric varies for each fabric type and depends on the fabric content and construction. Fabric care instructions are provided to uphold fabric integrity over time. Some fibers get damaged in high heat, or they have higher shrinkage rates than others when placed in the dryer. Other fabrics, like silk, are often dry clean only. Here is an overview of care symbols and what they mean. 

Additional fabric sourcing terms defined

Like most industries, the fashion industry has its own language for sourcing and manufacturing. These nine terms can help you navigate fabric sourcing like a pro. 

Fabric hand

Fabric hand refers to the way the fabric feels when you touch it with your hand. There are no definitive fashion industry terms for fabric hand, but commonly used words to describe fabric hand are soft, cool, dry, and silky.

Selvage

The selvage is the finished edge of the fabric. It keeps it from unraveling and fraying. The salvage runs the entire length of the material. 

Fabric grain

The grainline of the fabric is broken up into three options:

  1. Lengthwise grain (warp) refers to the threads that run parallel to the salvage.
  2. Crosswise grain (weft) refers to the threads that run perpendicular to the selvage or along the cut edge of the fabric. 
  3. Bias grain is technically not a “grain.” It’s the 45-degree angle between warp and weft grains. Cutting your fabric on the bias results in more stretch and can be used anywhere that you need the material to drape more smoothly over a curve.

Fabric drape

Fabric drape is one of the most important factors to consider when constructing a garment. Drape refers to how the fabric hangs or falls on the body. You can decide whether you want a dress to hug the body or hang away from the body.

Fabric hanger 

A fabric hanger, also referred to as a fabric header, serves as a fabric sample. It’s a small cutting of the fabric so buyers can see and feel the material firsthand. You can also use the swatch as a reference during the design process. 

Sample yardage

Sample yardage is the fabric that you order when designing and developing samples. Typically it costs more than bulk fabric yardage that you buy for production. Most fabric suppliers require a five-yard minimum order for sample yardage. 

Bulk yardage

Bulk yardage is the fabric that you order after you have designed, developed, and approved your garments. Bulk yardage refers to the more significant quantity of fabric yardage that you buy to manufacture your products. Depending on the supplier, there may be sizable minimum order requirements, or you can order a small quantity at a higher price per yard.

Greige goods

Greige is an unfinished woven or knitted fabric in its raw state, before being bleached, dyed, or printed. 

Shrinkage

Shrinkage is the process in which a piece of fabric becomes smaller than its original size, usually through the process of laundry. Typically represented as a percentage, it’s up to you to decide what your tolerance level is for fabric shrinkage. Confirming the shrinkage rate before you go to production can help you determine if you need to adjust the fit specifications of a garment to account for shrinkage.

Sourcing fabric that fits your business

Now that you have a better idea of the fabric sourcing process and commonly used terms, it’s time to visit trade shows, order samples, and look at what other comparable retailers are using for their products to spark ideas and inspire your next collection. 

Fabric sourcing FAQ

What is fabric sourcing?

Fabric sourcing is the act of finding fabric or a fabric supplier that helps you gather the best fabric options for your clothing line.

How does fabric sourcing work?

To source fabric for your clothing line, you’ll need to attend trade shows or look online to find the best fabric supplier to fit what you’re looking for. Then, you’ll reach out to create a partnership and add them into your supply chain so you’ll have a steady supply of stunning fabrics.

Why is fabric sourcing important?

Fabric sourcing and ensuring you have a wide variety of fabrics available helps to ensure that your clothes are unique, comfortable, chic, and appealing to your target audience.

Where do designers source their fabrics?

Many designers source their fabrics directly from manufacturers. They’re able to view a collection once it’s been created and choose the fabrics they want to use in their next line.

Where do companies buy fabric from?

How To Source Fabric for Your Clothing Line in 3 Steps (2024)