Although clutch and flywheel selection seems like black magic science, it really is straightforward. When the right choices are made you get an unbeatable clutch and flywheel combo that will serve you well for years to come. In the long run, you will save a bunch of money with the right decision to begin with. And can you afford to make a bad decision? Think about it.
Karl Benz is generally recognized as the father of the automotive clutch, which was invented nearly a century ago. There have been many variations of the humble hard-working clutch in the years since. The clutch’s primary task is to transmit power from the engine’s crankshaft to the transmission smoothly and firmly without slippage. Some slippage is important for smooth engagement, yet without excessive slippage that will cause unnecessary wear and heat issues. You want reasonable pedal effort yet solid engagement, which is what you will get from our Superior clutches.
Clutch selection depends upon the kind of driving you intend to do. If you’re going cruising or doing the workday commute, you need a high-quality diaphragm style single disc organic clutch. Organic clutch frictions provide smooth engagement and longevity in street use. Weekend racing calls for a Kevlar/organic combination. And if you’re real serious about performance driving, a Kevlar high-performance clutch is what you’re going to need to meet the demand.
There are two basic types of clutches — diaphragm and Long style.
The Long Style three-finger clutch was original equipment in a lot of vintage applications. Because the three-finger clutch and pressure plate exert incredible amounts of pressure they also create tremendous amounts of clutch pedal effort. Back in the day a stiff clutch pedal was the norm, but not anymore. Clutch technology has since become such that you don’t have to put up with a stiff clutch pedal (or the resulting knee replacement surgery) anymore. We can’t think of any reason here at Modern Driveline why you should have to put up with a heavy-handed clutch pedal.
The Long Style clutch consists of:
Now that’s a lot of parts!
The Long style three-finger clutch exerts brute pressure on the disc via a series of coil springs between the cover and plate. Spring pressure is the same regardless of engine rpm. Pedal effort is also the same regardless of engine speed. The Long Style clutch is an archaic design at best. It doesn’t make sense to use one anymore.
Diaphragm style clutches, as the name implies, consist of a diaphragm spring that “oil cans” between engaged and disengaged. It is easy to depress yet it delivers whopping hold power. The advantage of a diaphragm clutch is greater clamping power than a conventional three-finger Long style clutch yet without high pedal effort. What’s more, as diaphragm clutch discs wear clamping power increases over the life of the clutch, which improves clutch performance. This is one of the great advantages of a diaphragm style clutch. Another advantage is pedal effort, which is considerably less than a Long style clutch.
Although there are a lot of diaphragm style clutches in the marketplace Modern Driveline brings you a better clutch and here’s why. Modern Driveline brings you greater selection with a complete line of clutches and flywheels from the most trusted names in the industry — Superior and McLeod. We enjoy an extraordinary relationship with Superior Clutch because each clutch is handcrafted for Modern Driveline. Each Superior clutch goes through rigorous testing throughout the manufacturing and quality assurance process resulting in high reliability and performance.
A lot of manufacturers talk about Kevlar clutch frictions, yet in truth their clutch discs contain a very modest amount of Kevlar — some 10-20-percent — which isn’t saying much. Superior Clutch’s disc are nearly 100-percent Kevlar, which can stand extreme punishment and come back for more as hard miles are driven. If you’re a civilized driver your Superior Kevlar clutch from Modern Driveline may well be the last clutch you ever buy. They’re that good.
We can get into a lot of clutch science and physics. However, here’s what you need to know in order to make an educated purchase. There are four Modern Driveline clutch discs from Superior Clutch for your consideration — Organic, Kevlar/Organic, Kevlar/Kevlar, and Kevlar/Metal.
The Superior Organic clutch from Modern Driveline is a basic stock replacement in either 10″ or 10.5″ and with either a standard pressure plate or the brute King Cobra pressure plate. The Superior clutch is economical and well suited to the daily/weekend driver or show car. The Superior Super King Cobra clutch from Modern Driveline features steel backed facings to prevent disc separation common with original King Cobra clutches and heavy abuse.
Modern Driveline’s Superior Kevlar/Organic clutch is a multi-friction type with Kevlar® and Organic surfaces designed with additional grip in mind and high heat tolerance from high performance applications. These clutches are available in 10″ or 10.5″. The Superior Kevlar/Organic clutch is optimum for street and track use.
Superior Clutch’s Kevlar/Kevlar clutch from Modern Driveline is designed for long life and minimal wear under extreme duty conditions. These heavy-duty clutches available in 10.5” are preferable for the high performance, high torque applications. What’s more, they’re preferable for lightweight vehicles prone to clutch chatter.
The Kevlar/Metal discs are designed for high horsepower, drag racing or street performance where “grab” is the name of the game. These are typically considered an “on/off” clutch. You cannot “feather” them for smooth street driving.
Fig. 1: Side by side are the two basic types of clutches — diaphragm (left) and Long style (right). By design three-finger Long style clutches yield a very stiff clutch pedal. Diaphragm style clutches provide a powerful grip without a stiff clutch pedal.
Fig. 2: Two organic clutch discs — coarse tooth (left) and fine tooth (right). Clutch discs are generally designed for application (size and transmission input shaft) the type of use they will experience. Organic clutch frictions are for mild street use.
Fig. 3/4 Here’s why the Long style three-finger clutch gives us such a stiff pedal — powerful springs that provide exceptional holding power. However, they also make it very hard on your left leg and mechanicals because pressure plate holding pressure is transmitted directly to the clutch pedal linkage. This really is an outdated clutch design when there’s a better choice.
Fig. 5 The diaphragm clutch is simply a better piece by design because it gives us great holding power without a stiff pedal. This is a small light-duty diaphragm pressure plate.
Fig. 6/7 Here’s another larger diaphragm clutch and disc for GM applications with fine-tooth clutch disc. .
Fig. 8 The beauty of the diaphragm clutch is simplicity — fewer parts. This link ties the pressure head to the backing plate.
Fig. 9 These coil springs act as shock absorbers in a clutch disc. This is what gives us a smoother engagement as the clutch disc and pressure plate take hold.
Fig. 10 Diaphragm clutch fully engaged with clutch disc compressed.
Fig. 11 Organic and Kevlar clutch discs back to back. On the left is the organic friction disc, which is thicker and heavier. On the right is the lighter and tougher Kevlar disc. Superior Kevlar discs are nearly 100-percent Kevlar designed to take the extremes of racing. Organic discs are strictly for street use.
Fig. 12 From left to right are metallic, Kevlar, and Organic discs
Fig. 13 Here’s the Superior diaphragm clutch with organic friction for street use. The organic disc will not stand up to the punishment associated with racing. This is a coarse tooth hub for vintage Ford applications.
Fig. 14 This is a Kevlar clutch friction in fine-tooth for GM applications. A fine tooth hub provides greater strength because there’s more shaft and hub surface area. Kevlar can be used for street and strip, however, it is primarily a racing clutch. It can take tremendous punishment and come back for more.
Fig. 15 Here’s a closer look at the Kevlar surface. All of our Superior Kevlar clutches are nearly 100-percent Kevlar for extraordinary durability and long life. Kevlar doesn’t look all that intimidating but don’t let looks deceive you. Kevlar is the toughest clutch material available. If you buy it for street use you will never have to buy another clutch.
Fig. 16/17 Here’s a metallic Superior clutch for all-out racing applications. This pressure plate is for GM products. As a rule most GM applications employ a fine-tooth input shaft.
Fig. 18 We also stock McLeod dual-friction diaphragm style clutches for performance applications. Choice depends upon how much power you have and what you want your vehicle to do.
Fig. 19 Here are the input shaft types you can expect to see for domestic applications. These are clutch alignment tools. Two from clutch kits and one copped from a Ford transmission. The steel input shaft works well as a clutch alignment tool. Our Superior clutches come with a clutch alignment tool for your convenience.
Fig. 20 Clutch pilot bushings (right) are typical for OEM installations. Compliment your Modern Driveline clutch installation with a pilot bearing (left) for precision function and smooth clutch operation. While you have your vehicle apart check the engine oil pan gasket, rear main seal, and transmission input shaft seal for leakage. Any leakage issues must be handled at this time or you wind up with clutch disc contamination.
Fig. 21 Clutch release bearing to diaphragm alignment must be spot on for proper function and longevity. Diaphragm style clutch release bearings are constant duty parts meaning they’re in contact with the diaphragm at all times.
Fig. 22 Compliment your new Superior clutch installation with a new flywheel from Modern Driveline. This is money well spent because every new clutch deserves a new flywheel surface. We stock steel, billet, and aluminum flywheels for nearly every application imaginable.
This is why you do business with Modern Driveline. We are not a large company with huge product development teams with bean counters and Wall Street investors looking over our shoulders. We are automotive enthusiasts bent on getting our products right before they’re ever sold to the public. We are also very determined to deliver great technical support after the sale. As a Modern Driveline customer, you will never be our guinea pig. We find problems before they get to you and solve them before they ever become a headache for you.
We don’t just find the fault — we find the fix at the prototype phase before products ever reach the mass production phase. And if you ever encounter a problem with any of our products, we invite your contact so we may solve it before it ever becomes a frustration for you. If there is a problem after the sale, we are here to provide lifetime technical support for any Modern Driveline product you buy.
If you’re looking for more information or a quote for your project send us your details and we’ll get back to you with a quote. Or call…
How To Select The Correct Clutch For Your Vehicle
Choosing an aftermarket clutch for your vehicle requires you to be very careful. Compatibility between your vehicle and clutch is crucial and selecting the wrong clutch can harm both the clutch and your precious transmission. In this article, we are going to explain everything you need to know to make that selection.
Clutches are one of the most important parts of your vehicle. If you own a vehicle but are not an enthusiast and never wanted to test your vehicle’s limits or throw some punish it, then you probably won’t have to worry about it. The OEM clutch that came with your vehicle is gonna do fine for a long time.
However, if you are an enthusiast, owning anything from stock or basic bolt-on to a heavily race modified car and intend to test it on the tracks in various capacities, then this article is for you.
How to select the correct clutch?
This sounds like a difficult question to answer and you are probably expecting a lot of confusing technical jargon en route to your curious mind. Worry not! We are gonna explain everything you need to know step by step.
So, what clutch should you choose for your vehicle? It depends on both your vehicle and the way you intended to use it. The combination of these two factors is very important.
Here at Action Clutch, based on the intended use and the modifications done on the vehicle, we have grouped our clutch kits into several stages.
Heavy Duty Street Use and Light Track Use: Stage 1 Clutch Kit with Reinforced Organic facing
If your car has stock configuration or even some basic bolt-ons, your OEM clutch will do fine in street use, giving you long service life and a smooth driving experience. However, anything north of typical street use is gonna be a problem for your OEM clutch to handle. This is where our Stage 1 Clutch Kit comes.
Our 1OS Stage 1 Clutch Kits are perfect for heavy-duty street use and can take a bit of punishment that comes with light track use. These kits are engineered for cars that have stock-build or basic bolt-ons like in header, exhaust, or intake.
If your vehicle fits in this category, you basically need a clutch kit that gives you more holding power than your OEM clutch offers while maintaining that OEM-like smooth engagement and pedal feel.
So how does our Stage 1 Kit do in this regard?
Stage 1 clutch kits have reinforced steel-backed Copper Kevlar Organic facings. This, coupled with a single diaphragm heavy-duty pressure plate, makes sure that the clutch plate attains a 70% more holding capacity than your stock clutch. Here we should mention that the holding capacity percentage increase is based on crank horsepower rather than wheel horsepower.
Like all our single disc kits, Stage 1 Kit features Ductile Iron Friction Plate, 4-stage heat-treated diaphragm spring, reinforced heavy-duty drive straps, and are 100% dynamic spin balanced.
The 4-stage heat-treated diaphragm spring not only produces high clamping pressure but also ensures that the pedal effort approximates a stock clutch pedal. You will have no discernible extra effort while operating it.
The reinforced organic material in the facing is ideal for smooth engagement as they allow just the right amount of slippage during take-off. On top of that, it is a sprung kit, meaning the hub has coil springs that absorb the vibration caused by engine power fluctuations and clutch engagement and provides you with a smooth ride.
We want to assure you regarding the coil springs too. These are fully enclosed within spring retainers to make sure that a spring doesn’t pop out from the housing and wreak havoc in your transmission. This feature is present in all our Sprung Kits.
Before going further, we are gonna take a detour and discuss something very important, something called Break-In.
What is Break-In and why do you need it?
Okay, this is something very important when we talk about clutches. There are many theories about the break-in and the proper way to do it. Some say break-in is a myth and not necessary at all while others recommend completely incorrect ways to break in your clutch.
So, here’s the truth: Yes, breaking in is absolutely necessary. Here’s why:
Your clutch rubs against two friction surfaces, that of the flywheel and the pressure plate. It is easy to achieve a proper surface finish with these components and hence, they don’t have unevenness on their surfaces. However, due to the nature of the friction materials and how they sit on the backing plate, it is almost impossible to create a perfectly even surface on the friction disc. That means, when you install a new clutch kit, all of its surfaces are not in contact with the flywheel and pressure plate, and hence, it simply does not have the full capability to withstand the rated torque.
If you drive your vehicle at full potential during this time, meaning at high RPM, in full throttle, making hard launches, and so on, the small patches on friction disc that are in contact, are doing more work than they can handle and ultimately going to overheat and wear out much faster, causing failure to the whole disc.
Hence, You need to make sure that the entire surface on the friction material is properly seated in and is in contact with the flywheel and pressure plate surface evenly to handle the intended torque. This we achieve by breaking in the clutch.
So, what’s the proper way to break in a clutch that you just bought? The general process is to drive your car in city streets with a lot of normal take-offs and shifting, driving at moderate RPM and throttle (4500 RPM max and no more than 50% throttle). Driving on the highway on weekends just to put down the miles is never gonna do it.
You might be wondering about the break-in procedure of our Stage 1 Clutch Kit at this point. It’s simple, take it easy for the first 500 street miles. No hard launches, no hard acceleration, no more than half throttle, and no boost (if applicable). We recommend keeping the RPM under 4500.
Heavy Duty Street Use and Occasional Track Use: Stage 2 Clutch Kit with Kevlar® facing
The 1KS Stage 2 kit from Action Clutch uses our full-face Kevlar® Friction material instead of the reinforced organic one in Stage 1. This brings in some major differences. First of all, Kevlar® provides more friction than organic facings, meaning it can grab onto the flywheel much better and hence can handle more torque. At 110% increased holding capacity, this clutch allows a larger holding power than our Stage 1 Kit does.
Secondly, Kevlar®’ has exceptional lifespan (in many cases twice as much life as other materials) and great heat dissipation capabilities, which means that this is perfect for handling the occasional abuse that will come with the 110% increased holding capacity.
Our Stage 2 kit has an almost similar use case scenario as Stage 1, but it allows more horsepower in your vehicle. The reinforced Kevlar® sprung disc is designed for vehicles with basic bolt-ons or a naturally aspirated vehicle with headwork, such as cams, or very low boost or Nitrous setup.
And now you might be wondering, how does it do in terms of engagement and pedal feel? Let us assure you, it does exceptionally well. Kevlar® fibers have low static to dynamic friction coefficient. Paired with the sprung hub, this provides easy and smooth engagement that you desire for your daily driving, stop-n-go, or off-road driving.
Stage 2 Clutch Kit retains the structural goodness from Stage 1 kit. The steel back makes sure our kit has great burst strength. The springs are fully enclosed as well, assuring you the safety of your transmission. Our signature rivets also ensure structural integrity despite the intended rough use.
The break-in period for our Kevlar facing is more rigorous. We recommend 1000 street miles at 4500 RPM, with no more than half-throttle and no boost (if applicable)
Heavy-Duty Street use and Medium Track Use: Stage 3 Clutch Kit with MIBA Sprung Ceramic Disc
The 1MS Stage 3 Kit is engineered for low and mild horsepower vehicles. At 170% increased holding capacity, this clutch kit is suitable for heavy-duty street use as well as more frequent drag, road, or drift racing.
What sets the Stage 3 Clutch Kit apart from the previous ones is the extremely durable, high-performance MIBA Sprung Ceramic Disc in a 4 or 6 puck configuration. The segmented configuration produces greater pressure for clamping power while also reducing weight.
If you have drag racing or drifting in mind and have decently modified your vehicle to put some decent numbers, go for the 4-puck configuration as it has more aggressive, quicker engagement of the two configurations.
It’s a universal fact that segmented configurations naturally come with more clutch chatter than full-faced kits. Although a proper break-in will bring it down to a minimal level, some clutch chatter and gear rattle are normal for these types of clutches.
Our 1MS Stage 3 clutch kit features a single diaphragm heavy-duty pressure plate with reinforced drive straps for increased durability. This kit also retains our fully enclosed spring retainers and American-grade rivets.
Should I use Ceramic Discs for Street Use?
We don’t recommend using Ceramic discs for your daily driving. Ceramic-based clutch discs are intended for greater holding capacity and resistance to abuse rather than increased life expectancy. Typical street use will cause clutch slip and harsher engagement, leading to premature wear of the clutch kit. These configurations are not suitable for your typical daily drive to the grocery in your stock or lightly modified vehicle.
Heavy-Duty Drag/Road/Drift Racing: Stage 4 Clutch Kit with High-Performance MIBA Unsprung Ceramic Disc
If you want something exclusively for racing purposes, then the 1MD Stage 4 Clutch Kit is for you. This kit uses high-performance MIBA ceramic discs, but the disc hub is rigid or unsprung, meaning the engagement is instant, like an on-off switch. While offering the same 170% increase in holding capabilities as our Stage 3 kit, its lighter weight makes the shifting smoother and quicker.
This kit features a single diaphragm heavy-duty pressure plate with reinforced drive straps for increased durability. Just like our Stage 3 Kit, it comes with 4 and 6 puck configurations with the 4 puck being more aggressive than the latter one.
The combination of segmented configuration and the rigid hub means that there will be some clutch chatter and gear rattle. However, a proper break-in can bring it down to a fairly minimal level. We recommend 500 street miles while not crossing 4500 RPM and half-throttle. Avoid boost too, if applicable.
Should I use Rigid or Unsprung Hub Discs for my Stock Car?
Unless you have a dual-mass flywheel, you should strictly avoid Rigid/Unsprung Hub Discs for your typical street use. Our Stage 4 Clutch Kit with an unsprung hub should not be used on a stock or lightly modified vehicle that you use for daily driving. Unsprung clutch kits are not designed for daily/street use or any constant on/off engagement environment. Doing so might break the rivets on the clutch disk hub and cause premature failure.
Race Application and Heavy Track Use: Stage 5 Clutch Kit with High-Performance MIBA Sprung Ceramic Disc
With 200% increased holding capacity, our Stage 5 2MS Clutch Kit means business. Like the Stage 4 Kit, this one also uses High-Performance MIBA Ceramic Disc, but the hub is Sprung, not Rigid.
Another major difference is that it features a dual clamp load heavy-duty pressure plate, offering near double the clamping force of our Stage 3 and 4 kits. This means it offers more torque holding capacity. If you are using tires with more tractions, such as drag-radials or slicks, they are gonna hook up hard on the track during take-off, putting a greater load on your clutch. The dual clamp load heavy-duty pressure plate will provide enough clamp pressure to handle that extra load.
However, extra clamp pressure means that the pedal feel will be heavy with aggressive engagement.
Stage 5 Kit has 4 and 6 puck configurations with 4 puck being the more aggressive of the two. Break-in requires 500 street miles under 4500 RPM with no more than half throttle and no boost ( if applicable). After the break-in is done properly, the clutch chatter and gear rattling will be fairly minimized.
Stage 5 Clutch Kits comes with all the usual goodness that Action Clutch offers, i.e., Full Enclosed Spring Retainers and American Grade Rivets.
Heavy-Duty Drag/Road/Drift Racing: Stage 6 Clutch Kit with High-Performance MIBA Sprung Ceramic Disc
The 2MD Stage 6 Clutch Kit has the same features as the Stage 5 kit, except the hub. Stage 6 Kit has a Rigid or Unsprung hub that adds instant aggressive engagement with the 200% increased holding capacity, making it a serious Drag/Road/Drift Racing vehicle.
Apart from the hub, the rest of the Clutch Kit is similar to our Stage 5 Clutch Kit, including the break-in procedure.
Ironman Sprung and Unsprung Clutch Kit: Sintered Iron Disc for Track Use Application only
If you have a vehicle with insane horsepower and God-knows-how-much torque and you want to abuse it like there’s no tomorrow, then you need Sintered Iron. Sintered Iron has an almost unmatched heat resistance and an insanely high coefficient of friction. These two properties make sure that you can let your vehicle loose in the track and basically do whatever you want.
Here come our Ironman Sprung and Unsprung Clutch Kits. Our legendary Ironman Kit features extremely durable American Sintered Iron friction material. This kit is suited for those who are not yet ready to upgrade to a multi-disc option but want something close to that insane high torque capacity at an affordable price. Paired with the super abrasive sintered iron goodness, our dual clamp load kit ensures a crazy high torque capacity. As mentioned above, the Ironman Kit is available in both sprung and unsprung versions.
One great thing about The Ironman Kit is that it offers some slippage on take-off, which champs this kit as a go-to kit with its repeatability and endurance. However, we advise you to learn how to slip a clutch before doing it to avoid damage to the clutch.
Designed with exclusively high-powered race vehicles in mind, the clutch engagement is very aggressive, rendering an instantaneous on/off feel. The clutch will not introduce clutch chatter but will have light engagement noise and some gear rattle.
For break-in, we advise 500 street miles under 4500 RPM with no more than half-throttle and no boost.
Multi-Disc Kits (Twin Disc and Triple Disc): Ultimate choice for Racing Applications
Multi-disc kits are the latest trends in clutch technology. Multi-discs design have multiple smaller disks than one larger disk, which means more surface area and consequently, more torque capacity. Add that to the sintered metals as disk materials and you’ll get something that will chew up everything that you’ll throw at it.
Action Clutch multi-disc clutches feature multiple sintered metallic race discs, formulated in the USA. These 0.25-inch-thick rigid discs have a superior wear resistance and heat capacity because of their unique friction mix and Ventilated 6061-T6 Billet Aluminum clutch cover design.
Thanks to the increased surface area and sintered metal facing, The Twin Disc Kit has 800TQ holding capacity while Triple Disc Kit flaunts a whooping 1000TQ holding capacity.
One of the great features of our Multi-Disc Clutch is its superb engagement characteristics. They offer smoother engagement than any other disc in the market right now. Moreover, our Multi-Plate assemblies offer an increase in clamping force without requiring twice the pedal pressure.
Multiple smaller discs instead of a single larger disc reduces weight, resulting in quick throttle response and an overall quick engagement to get you off that line as fast as possible.
The Multi-Disc Kits feature high-strength Steel alloy and pressure and floater plates. Our unique design offers less rotational mass and minimal deflection during quick shifting. Each unit is individually inspected before releasing, hence quality control is never compromised.
A summary on how to choose the right clutch
Action Clutch has the perfect Clutch Kits for all use case scenarios. In the below table, you’ll find some crucial information about our entire clutch lineup, which will help you to decide which clutch is right for your vehicle:
Clutch Kit
Recommended Use
Increase in Holding Capacity (based on factory power output)
Hub Type/Facing Configuration
Friction Materials
Pedal Feel & Engagement (after a proper break-in)
1OS Stage 1
Heavy-Duty Street Use and light Track-Use
70%
Sprung/Full Face
Organic
OEM-like pedal feel and a smooth engagement
1KS Stage 2
Heavy-Duty Street Use and mild Track-Use
110%
Sprung/Full Face
Kevlar®
OEM-like pedal feel and a smooth engagement
1MS Stage 3
Heavy-Duty Street Use and Medium Track-Use-Circuit / Time Attack / Road Racing
170%
Sprung/4-Puck,6-Puck
Ceramic
Light / Medium pedal feel with Aggressive Engagement
1MD Stage 4
Heavy-Duty Drag/Road/Drift Racing.
Street Use is not recommended.
170%
Unsprung/4-Puck,6-Puck
Ceramic
Light / Medium pedal feel with Aggressive Engagement
2MS Stage 5
Strictly Race Application/Heavy Track Use
200%
Sprung/4-Puck,6-Puck
Ceramic
Heavy pedal feel with Aggressive Engagement
2MD Stage 6
Strictly Race Application/Heavy Track Use
200%
Unsprung/4-Puck,6-Puck
Ceramic
Heavy pedal feel with Aggressive Engagement
Ironman
Specifically designed for track use applications only
250%
Sprung, Unsprung
Sintered Iron
Heavy pedal feel with Smooth Engagement
Multi-Disc (Twin and Triple Disc)
Racing Applications with Serious Horsepower
Twin-Disc: 800TQ Holding Capacity
Triple-Disc: 1,000TQ Holding Capacity
Unsprung
Sintered Metal
Reasonable pedal feel with Smooth Engagement
Apart from the ones on the table, the below features of our clutch kits make them a great choice for your vehicle:
Pressure Plate Features (All Single Disc Kits–stages 1-6 + Ironman)
ALL Sprung Kit Features (Stages 1, 2, 3, 5, Ironman Sprung)
ALL Kits
Still can’t decide which clutch to choose?
Purchasing the wrong type of clutch kit for your specific engine power output can result in premature clutch failure, damage to the transmission, and void warranty eligibility. If you’re unsure what kit is right for you, please DM us on any of our social media channels or through our General Inquiries form.